Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Fall is Here, and Deep Treatments!


I love fall where I am. It's two weeks of perfect, wonderful weather. Warm sunshine mixed with a nice breeze and clean air. Just had to get that out of the way since the weather where I am is quite literally perfect today! I also got to wear my new boots (these!) and so I'm quite the happy curly today!

My curls are also happy happy campers lately because on Monday, I did my very first Aphogee protein treatment. I know for absolute certainty that my hair lurvessss protein! It really can't get enough. My hair hasn't met a protein it didn't like, which is just a result of it being fine in texture and not picky in terms of products. My hair also hair low to medium porosity, so it's not anything shocking that my hair loves protein like it does. Generally, fine hair needs protein, coarse hair often does not. This is because coarse hair comes pre-loaded genetically speaking with an excess of protein. Adding more often reacts badly with the hair, creating a straw-like, dry feeling. Of course, there are always exceptions, and many coarse haired curlies use less intense proteins in moderation with success. Some examples would be keratin and soy proteins. Wheat proteins, oat proteins, etc are often too much for coarse hair.

But my fine hair loves any kind it can get! I usually use Aubrey Organics Glycogen Protein Balancing conditioner as my protein deep treatment, but I was at home where I have a Sally's close by, so I thought I'd give Aphogee a whirl. I bought several packets of the Two Step Protein Treatment. The picture above shows exactly what it looks like, except that mine does not have the third pouch with a sample of the Aphogee Shampoo.

Lots to talk about with this product. The packet has one pouch that contains Step 1, which is the protein treatment, and the second pouch has a Balancing Moisturizer.

Honestly, its the scariest product I've used. It is extremely potent. It even says on the pouch: "Serious Care and Protection." It also says "Stops Hair Breakage, Rebuilds Hair Stucture for Six Weeks"....translation: do not use often. The most common recommendation I've seen is once a month, and that's if your hair is damaged and full of breakage. I will probably try again in a month because, as I'm sure you've noticed, I love protein. I wouldn't do it any more often that that though. However, Aphogee has another protein treatment called the 2 Minute Keratin treatment which is less intense and can be used more often

If you are in need of protein, Aphogee will provide it in excess. It's fabulous if you know your hair loves protein, but if you don't know yet, I'd start with something else. Give some products with lighter doses of protein a try before you pick up this stuff. This is for experienced protein users only!

That all being said, let's get into it. The first ingredient is Hydrolyzed Collagen (aka protein). Also high up on the list, we have a urea product, which is a nitrogen rich organic compound. Right after that, there is some magnesium sulfate, which my hair also likes. There is also Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein. They used to use animal protein in the formulation; however, veggie protein supposedly stinks less (we'll get to this). Then we have a complex derivative of dimethicone, so a low poo is needed after this treatment. Everything else after that is pretty typical stuff.

Here's the basic breakdown of how to use this stuff. I followed the directions on the packet very closely while adding in a cowash. This is one product where you do NOT want to deviate from the given instructions:

1) Shampoo hair with a sulfate poo. The hair needs to be stripped in order for the protein to really be able to get into your hair effectively. A cowash won't cut it, but you might be able to try a low poo. I just did a sulfate poo to be safe. Don't apply any conditioner after your shampoo. I just did this step in the sink to save some water.

2) Apply Step 1 (the protein treatment) to wet hair so that the hair is saturated. You don't want to do this step with a shirt on. I did it with a towel on in the bathroom. You also may want to put the treatment in a squirt bottle to make it easier to manage. I used my hands and it worked fine, but I'm not going to lie to you curlies, this stuff smells god awful. It smells exactly like soiled cat liter to me. I recommend using a well ventillated area. I had the bathroom door and window open and the fan on and I still felt queasy. Very nasty. Supposedly, the use of vegetable protein rather than animal protein has improved the smell from what it used to be. I call BS. Anyway, I applied using my hands using raking and scrunching in every which way. I then washed my hands in the hopes that the smell would come out. It does. You can then comb through with a wide tooth comb gently if you wish, but I didn't want the smell on my comb!

3) Do not touch your hair anymore. Leave your hair uncovered (no caps!). Use a hard dryer or a hand dryer to completely dry your hair. This is the interesting part. You hair will transform into a solid helmet. I've never felt my hair be so hard and stiff before. You need to dry it completely, so blowdrying rules go out the window unless you want to be there for 2 hours (aka take the diffuser off). I used high speed air alternating between medium and high heat. The package says medium heat, but let's be realistic. I only have so much time. The important thing to get it totally dry and do not agitate it when drying.

4) Now that you could withstand the ceiling collapsing with minimal injuries thanks to your new found definition of helmet hair, hop in the shower and let the warm water make your hair soft again. This is where I deviated from the steps just a tad. It says to remove all excess protein by just rinsing. I added in a cowash at the advice of a couple threads on naturallycurly just to make sure everything is out and to make your hair feel normal again. Plus, you just did a sulfate poo, so your hair will be wanting moisture anyway. So here, I cowashed using a protein free cowash (Suave Aloe and Waterlily).

5) Apply the Step 2 (Balancing Moisturizer). It's a pH balancing conditioner, but it does have some more 'cones. Felt good in my hair though, nice slip, good distribution. I will have to low poo soon to get rid of these 'cones however. Apply and rinse as you would with any other rinse out

6) Now, according to Aphogee, you are finished. However, based on experience, naturallycurly posters many times over have said that now you must must must give you hair a nice moisturizing deep treatment to apologize for all the stress of sulfate shampoo and high intensity protein. Because I was at home, my first choice of Curl Junkie's Curl Rehab was not available to me. I decided rather than use nothing, I'd leave some GVP Conditioning Balm in my hair for an hour or so wrapped in a warm towel. My hair seemed to enjoy this, so I'll have to keep it in mind for the future. After that, I just combed my hair and let it air dry.

Results? After air drying, I could already see a difference. My hair was very coily, considering that when totally air dried I usually don't get much definition at all. I even had hints of root curl! I was very excited to style it the next day. When I did, it was happy happy happy! Very coily, root curl, happiness!

I'm very happy with the treatment results. I will definitely use this again, but I sort of hope the next usage coincides with a stuffed up nose, because man does this stuff stink!